Taking Care of Your Friendly Worm Guy Worm Bin
Taking care of a Friendly Worm Guy worm bin is not as difficult as you may think. There are just a few things that you should know about them and what I feel we should avoid. First I will tell you what kind of foods that do well in a bin. Then I will give you a list of foods I feel we should stay away from.
NOTE: The food must first start to rot and turn into bacteria before the worms can ingest it.
So cutting the food into smaller pieces will speed up the decomposing process.
That will help the worms to eat the food up faster.
Be careful if you try using the blender to cut up food (called a slurry), this can make your bin wet. Small amounts are fine, each week. You would have to experiment with small amounts at a time. However large amounts will make the bin too wet. I do not advise experimenting with this until you are used to feeding worms for a good while. First you should get the feel of what works well and the moisture level they seem to like best. European Nightcrawlers like more moisture then Red Wigglers. If worried just stay away from using slurries, as they are the trickiest to feed with. Researching about this type of feeding is advisable before attempting this method.
Foods that work well in Worm bins
-Coffee grounds and coffee filters
(I believe you can actually use all the coffee/tea grounds that you get, they love it!)
-Finely shredded paper/newspaper (no shiney, waxy paper)
-Dried leaves (in fall)
-Fruit- bananas and their peels or any other fruit and their peels,apples and their cores,celery,pears,peaches,etc.
-Vegitables – Potato peelings,carrot peelings, left over peas, green beans, lettuce,cucumber,etc.
-Bins do well with left over watermellon, cantelope and honey dew mellons (caution- these types of fruit have lots of water and will add more moisture to your bin. So don’t add too much that your bin can handle it) even the seeds can start growing in it, this is good in the bin as well.
-Plain Maccaronni,(I won’t put anything spicy)(remember no hamburger or meat)
-Dried Bread ,crumbled in moderation
-Egg shells are most important as they neutralize the PH of your worm bin and add grit for the worms to digest the food in their gizzard (keep all egg shells and crush up fine for the bin after they are completely dried out). You can put dried egg shells in a used bread or sandwich bag and roll with a rolling pin to crush it fine enough for the worms. When it is finely ground add it to the bin.
Smaller amounts and different kinds of food waste is the best type of feeding. It makes more variety of nutrients and a very healthy environment within an inside home bin. The breakdown of foods will be at different time intervals when variety is given. Also, alot more nutrients are availiable to the worms. This also will be good for your castings(worm poop)-100% Natural fertilizer(with no chemicals added). Keep the bin decomposing the foods but try not to fill it faster than the worms can possibly eat it. Over feeding could cause problems in the bin. Thus making the bin too wet and could make it stinky. Remember, if the bin is in good working order the bin will not stink as long as you always bury all the food that you are putting in your bin. Then the smell of decomposition will not escape. My tip, START SLOW, don’t feed excessively and take your time. Experiment on what they enjoy to eat and how slow or fast they are at eating certain foods. Experimenting with smaller amounts of new foods is safe, watching carefully and taking your time. You will then understand how and what you want to feed them. Healthy FRIENDLY WORM GUY WORMS are very hardy and are good keepers. Just take good care of your bin weekly. Let them have enough time to do their work. In time, you will have a good idea how much food scraps to put in and the correct moisture level. You will know by the appearance of your worms and soil in your bin. When the bin is getting to dry you can moisten it with a fine water mist from a water sprayer. I have balanced the moisture level in the bin at times with adding dry shreaded paper/cardboard when I find it too wet. I like to move all the bedding around once every few weeks or so to aerate the environment. I also add a bunch of moist shreaded paper/cardboard on top to stop any odours from arising in/out of the bin.
Foods to KEEP OUT of your worm bin
-No Bones
-No Onions/Garlic
-No Oranges,tomatoes,lemons (no acidic fruit)(more experienced bin owners can or will get away with small amounts of these added)
-No Meat or poultry
-No Milk or milk products,don’t forget about yogurt and cheese products being a milk product
You may see warning signs as a problem in your bin, for eg. if the worms seem to be trying to get out. Most often worms are just exploring in a new bin or just exploring their space and all is fine. They also will crawl around on the inside lid and around the sides just before it rains. I would not worry just watch how the bin is acting and you will get a good idea what is happening. Allow worms in a new worm bin to get used to it’s new environment. It may take them a little adjustment at first. If you like, you may take the lid off and have the bin under a house light to get them down into their new space at first. KEEP OUT OF SUNLIGHT, they are too fragile to be in the sun. Worms need it dark and moist. Later you can put the lid back on. Make sure your bin has enough air vents to breath or buy one of our FRIENDLY WORM BINS already to go.
Other reasons that may make the worms crawl about their bin. Think about the latest things you fed them, is there lots of noise around them or vibrations, is barometric pressure dropping? Some foods may not be as favourable to the worms and you may recheck you list of what not to feed. If there are vibrations / the barometric pressure is dropping and the worms think it is going to rain they are going to head out of the bedding. That’s their natural instinct. The worms like the bedding just damp to very moist(not wet). (Again, European Nightcrawlers like the moisture more then the Reds.) Remember, it is good if you can squeeze the bedding and get only about one or two drops out of it, this is the safe zone!
Having a worm bin can be great fun!! Experimenting can be the best part and the majority of kids love it too!! They can get dirty in the dirt, even in the winter, and hold the worms. They also learn about worms and their habitat!
Note : Grandparents also will find this hobby fun with the grandchildren! We have two children of our own and we see it is fun for all. When we show them, they really like to check out the worms. Our oldest likes to help feed them too! He asks lots of questions and he likes childrens books made about them. We bought our own children books on worms but your local library could do just fine too!
The bins can make you your own castings which is the best ever fertilizer that nature intended!! Also, when you want to go fishing, the worms are always around. It’s easy to get worms out and take with you, fresh and wiggly, even during the very early morning hours!! If taking care of worms properly, you can have plump juicey worms and never have to buy worms again. Not to mention another bin can be started on your own or you can even add a percentage of worms each year into your garden. The worms can aerate the soil and make the castings in your garden as your own personal garden workers. You could add an outside compost bin and slowly start to put worms in it as your worms reproduce more worms in your indoor bin. I also believe an outdoor composter can also be a necessity as the excess food scapes that you can’t use indoors may be put in the outdoor composter. If you do not have an outdoor composter you could always freeze excess food and label it worm feed. Then you can use the frozen feed at a later date when it’s needed. In the long run, very little waste of food scrapes come out of your home. Food gets recycled, we can use the worms for our gardens and fishing. The worm fertilizer is used to improve our plant growth and soil and it is a neat and inexpensive hobby once established.
The bin must be harvested about every 4-6 months or so, the worms can’t survive in their own waste once it is overtaking the bin. The castings(worm poop) is no longer food for the worms to consume. The waste is no longer good to the worms but for us it is odour free and the complete nutrients needed for our plants to grow to their potential. Castings make the ideal thing to use in starting garden seeds. Scientists have tested this in the past with great results. It has proven itself to be the best out of many different ways for starting seedlings.
We have had several customers who commented on how the castings worked so well on their plants and that it works better than any fertilizer method they have ever used. I am also worry free about the health of my vegitables I eat from my garden because I know it is healthy. Summer is a healthier eating for us all, at our home. Worm castings are a nice reward for our efforts!! The indoor bin can be fun for many people. If it is not fun, those people may benifit by having an outdoor compost bin and just buying their worms and castings from a local worm and vermicultural business. This keeps us in business too!!
The biggest complaint about an indoor bin could be if you get fruit flies in your bin. With a CAREFUL,WATCHFUL EYE this will NOT HAPPEN. Excessive amounts of food or food not carefully burried may cause this. Neglecting the bin could also cause this to happen. If it does happen a homemade trap can be made to rid them or a sticky fly box can be bought at a local hardware store to trap them. Then note what went wrong and avoid the problem from re-occuring. Also burying your food under the bedding or shedded paper bedding should stop flies from arriving and hatching and keep down the smell of decomposition. Note: I have had a bin in my kitchen for food scapes for a long time. With a watchful eye, the bin did not give off odours. I burry all food and when they finally get eating then I add more to the bin. We also have an outdoor compost bin we use in the summer (so far without worms in it), with the outdoor bin there is no need to be as watchful.With an outdoor composter you must just be careful not to put foods that will attract animals to your home. I have enjoyed our bin, still learning(always learning), only tried using a slurry once. I just cut up my food in small pieces by hand with a knife. I am confident that if I can do a worm bin then anyone can. Just take your time and experiment slowly.
HAVE FUN WITH YOUR FRIENDLY WORM GUY WORM BIN!! THANKS FOR RECYCLING!!
Advice by -The Friendly Worm Guy and his Wife (the one who feeds the worms in the indoor worm bins)
Written by Jeff on September 7th, 2008 with no comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and Composting with composting worms and Friendly Worm Guy Store and News and worm bins and Worm Stories.
Here is some great questions from Gwen. here is the questions!
“I too am interested in worm farming. I live in Central Oregon which is a great place to raise worms. I have started 3 bins, 2 plastice bins that are each 5 levels and one 30 gallon tub with lid. I am wondering how do you know when it is time to harvest worms and start a new bin? Seems simple, I get how to separate them , feed them and all but how do you know when to harvest? Should the bins be overflowing with worms??? Should it be when the composting is complete?? I feel silly not knowing but in all the books and websites I have visited this is not clearly addressed….. HELP!!”
Gwen
I am postings pics of the bedding in the bin, and finished,or mostly composted bedding that is in need of harvesting the worm casting.
The first question is 1) “I am wondering how do you know when it is time to harvest worms and start a new bin? Seems simple,Should the bins be overflowing with worms???”
here is the answer: It is time to start a new bin when the worm numbers are very high, so “yes” when it seems that your bin is overflowing with worms, it is time to start a new bin. because as the bin continues to be processed by the worms, the bin starts to fill up with worm castings in turn making less space for food, For the worms to consume, so in my opion, the worms are in their greatest numbers when the bin is full of food sourses. So this would be 2-3 months after starting the bin, as long as the worms have had a good food supply up till now. If you wait till the composting is complete, the number of worms will have dropped in big numbers.
so Gwen! I hope this answer helps
Jeff
Now I would like to post some pics of, worm bin bedding, composted bedding, pre-composted bedding etc.
Here is a pic of pre-composted food waste that I pickup from the Old Vault rest. please check out the post on the Old Vault Food waste.
Next we have a pic of shredded cardboard, this stuff is great for adding to a worm bin, If your bin gets too moist, cardboard will take care of the excess moisture very quickly.
Another bedding material I like to use is shredded paper, YES you will hear my worm buddies say that shredded paper has chemicals in it, in numbers to high to use this material for worm bedding, I have had only one problem when using paper, It will pack down in the bin if used in thick layers, so if you mix the paper and cardboard together, the combo works great.
Now on to the worm bed, this is a pic of the worm bed completely composted ready to be harvested.
This a pic after the composted bedding is screened and turned into Worm Castings(worm poop)
I hope these pictures of the different processing steps in the worm bedding helps alot of you people out.
Lets hear what you have to say!! was this post helpful??
Thanks Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 26th, 2008 with 5 comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and Composting with composting worms and Friendly Worm Guy Store and News and Reader Questions and Worm Stories.
Well , its a little more then a week since my last post on the Giant Sunflowers Growth. But it was worth the wait. This week the flower is coming on the plant, and it is now 10 feet and 10 inchs TALL.
I am sure the plant is not going to get any taller, but lets see if the plant will be able to remain standing with the weight of the very big Sunflower head that is going to grow on this plant in the next couple of weeks. now from guessing how tall this plant will get, now we can guess the weight of the finished sunflower head.
Till next time!!
Giant Sunflower #1
Giant Sunflower Update #2
Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 26th, 2008 with no comments.
Read more articles on Composting with composting worms and Friendly Worm Guy Store and News and playing around and Worm Stories.
The last couple of days, I have got some emails with some really good questions about taking care of the worm bins, some of the questions included.1) How do I tell if the bin is wet enough? 2) when should we harvest the worms? 3) What does the bedding look like when its time to harvest the Worm Castings?
In this post I will try to answer all these great questions and provide some pics of the bedding in the worm bins through to the finished (completely composted bedding)
Here are some questions from a customer of mine, here is what Ed asked!
I read that it should be “like a damp sponge”. I also wonder if I actually have enough worms…In time , I’m sure I will. Would it be possible for you to take a few pics of one of your bins so I may guage conditions? Maybe lift some cover to show conditions inside the pile? Should I rotate the bottom to the top or occasionally break up to aerate?
1) How wet should your worm bin be? well the wet sponge idea is the safe zone, not much will go wrong if you follow this tip. In my opinion your bin has to be a little more wet then the wet sponge idea, So that your moisture is almost wet! if you are using a plastic bin, you should see moisture on the sides of the bin, European Nightcrawlers like the bin with more moisture then the Red Wigglers do.You need the moisture for the bin to operate properly, in quoting my wife (Lorie) she tells our customers that in time after buying worms and or a complete bin from us, That taking care of the worms just starts to come natural to you, you soon start to learn how much to feed the worms, what food waste the worms just love, and what food takes a while to break down so the worms can consume that food.
2) Should I rotate the bedding in my bin bottom to top?
Don’t be afraid to get down and dirty in your worm bin, moving the bedding around in the bin doesn’t hurt, it gets the air moving in your bin, but you don’t have to do this, the worms will work all the bedding in the bin like little plows, the worms soon turn all the bedding into Castings(worm poop)
I hope Ed that these pics of my worm bin gives you an idea of what the bedding the bin should look like.
In my next post! I will answer these great questions from Gwen.
I too am interested in worm farming. I live in Central Oregon which is a great place to raise worms. I have started 3 bins, 2 plastice bins that are each 5 levels and one 30 gallon tub with lid. I am wondering how do you know when it is time to harvest worms and start a new bin? Seems simple, I get how to separate them , feed them and all but how do you know when to harvest? Should the bins be overflowing with worms??? Should it be when the composting is complete?? I feel silly not knowing but in all the books and websites I have visited this is not clearly addressed….. HELP!!!
Gwen
check back soon!
Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 18th, 2008 with 25 comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and Composting with composting worms and News and Reader Questions and Worm Stories.
Reuse and Recycle at its best! My building I harvest all my worms in, and the building I make all my worm bins in, Is made from 95% left over and reused materials and it looks great TOO!
My building is 16′ wide X 24′ long, the doors and windows were either given to me by someone, or they were bought at yard sales by us.
3 years ago we completely gave our house new siding,windows,doors,electical,etc 75% of the siding was left over from doing the house, so I only had to buy 200 sq ft of siding to complete the building.
I also needed to buy the cement mix to mix my cement. I can’t remember but I think I got 12 bags of cement. When I got to the electical, I was able to get a (breaker)panel box from my brother-in-law, the one that was in our house was too big, I only needed a small one for a building of this size.
For safety reasons I did not want to save money when it came to wiring the building, I bought the wire and the fixtures.
Well there you have it!! The cost of this building to me so far, I still need to do work inside,is $500.00.
WOW! Yes $500.00 dollars, The point I am getting to is (REDUCE,REUSE,,RECYCLE) And look at the great stuff you can do with Recycled Materials.
Till next Time….
Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 17th, 2008 with no comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and Composting with composting worms and Friendly Worm Guy Store and News and Worm Stories.
Here is an UPDATE on my Giant Sunflower, if you recall last weeks post where the sunflower was 8.5 feet tall.
We are having a little fun with this post WOW! I wonder how tall this plant will get too!
Check back again next week! so far we have a foot (12″) of grow per week,
Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 13th, 2008 with no comments.
Read more articles on News and playing around.
This great little school in Whitefish, Not only has composting worms in the classrooms and a great recycling program in place, RH Murray can now Clean all its waste water as well!
This article is from www.NorthernLife.ca news paper,(Sudbury Ontario) dated July 30, 2008
Here it is, enjoy!
R.H. Murray School in Whitefish is using an advanced wastewater system to treat its waste more efficiently. At the same time it is protecting nearby groundwater and streams, said Terry Luck, wastewater representative for Bionest Distribution Inc., based in Pembroke.
The $100,000-plus system was installed Monday. The company has installed 300 similar systems in southern Ontario, 6,000 in Quebec and 200 in Western Canada, said Luck.
Peter Firla, environmental engineer with Trow Associates, designer of the Whitefish installation, said the school needed a new wastewater system to replace the use of a sewage lagoon it has been using since the 1960s.
“The school has concerns over liability, mosquitoes, odour and illegal dumping regarding the lagoon and they wanted a new system designed and installed,” said Firla. The clay soil on site did not offer the proper percolation rate for a standard septic system, he said.
Because a commercial sized septic and field bed system requires a lot of space, the school asked Trow to come up with a smaller sized system.
“We had just investigated a system for a client locally using the Bionest technology and went with that.”
Between the standard-sized 25 cubic metre septic tank and the field bed, is a 15 cubic metre unit that measures 1.5 metres high, two metres wide and 4.5 metres long. The unit is called a Bionest wastewater treatment system.
The system will operate more efficiently over a longer period of time and requires less space on the site, said Firla.
The downsized field bed that can handle 10,000 litres per day is sized at 30 metres by 30 metres.
“A smaller field bed means less excavation, less aggregate used and less space (is) required,” said Firla.
The wastewater leaving the field bed is cleaner than that of a conventional septic system process. This is important because the liquid eventually seeps into ground water or ends up in nearby water bodies.
“The wastewater will have a lower BOD (biological oxygen demand) going into adjacent water bodies. It will tie up much less oxygen that is required by fish or other life,” he said.
Firla said he would recommend the system to other clients in the north. For more information about the system, go to www.bionest.ca
Written by Jeff on August 11th, 2008 with no comments.
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This is going to be a whole new part of the FriendlyWormGuy website
(Seasonal Pictures From The FriendlyWormGuy Farm)
We live in Northern Ontario Canada, In our opinion the most wonderful place in Ontario, From fishing in the hundreds of lakes and rivers in our area, to snowmobling, skiing, skating to the change in season to Spring when all comes back to life again. Our farm is 160 acres or .5 mile by .5 mile square in size, We have a wonderland full of great pictures,
I am going to start with some pictures taken here this week, from scary clouds to a wonderful rainbow.
It is so dark!! this was taken late afternoon
Now to some of the wonderful pics after the clouds moved on a little.
This is the reason, our area is called Rainbow Country
For those of you readers that like to look at some great pictures, from flower pics in summer to winter pics, and the other great pics we are able to catch on this wonderful farm of ours, check back regularly to see more great pictures.
Hope you enjoy this part of the website as much as we do.
Jeff and Lorie.
Written by Jeff on August 10th, 2008 with no comments.
Read more articles on News and playing around and Seasonal pictures from the FriendlyWormGuy farm.
Thinking of some fun stuff to do, I decided it was time to start tracking the growth of our GIANT SUNFLOWER,
My mother (Suzanne) and myself standing beside the 8.5′ Giant Sunflower.
In the last week this Sunflower has took off like crazy! So it was time to start tracking the growth of this Sunflower, Yes it is being fertilized with Worm Castings. Today I got the tape out, 8.5′ tall, the flower has not started to develop yet, and we still have alot of growing season. Who knows, this thing could hit 12-14′ we’ll have to wait and see!!
I will update again in a week! please follow this post, it is going to be fun!
Jeff
Written by Jeff on August 6th, 2008 with 3 comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and News and playing around and Worm Stories.
I am a new worm farmer and you have answered my questions before when no one else did, thank you.
My self, my wife,Tonsie and our friends Mike brown and his wife, Mary, formed a partnership and we are now worm farmers. We have a newly build worm bin that is 3 feet by 6 feet and we have 3 lbs. of European night crawlers. The bin is made out of plywood above ground and is 24 inches deep.
I did’nt say we were big worm farmers at this time but we will be.
I have a couple of questions for you, I hope you have time to answer.
1. How can I seperate the castings from the vermicompost to get pure worm castings? (I saw your machine, us geting one like that would be difficult at best.)
2. We plan on selling both bait worms and castings. How many lbs. of worms will we need before we can start marketing the worms?
3. How many bins 3? by 6? will we need to start producing enough castings to start selling?
4. I guess I am asking you how many lbs of worms do we keed before we really are “Worm farmers”?
5. I plan on ordering more worms in September, if I order from you how am I assured that I am getting pure European Night Crawlers and not a mixture of Reds and Euros? (They will be shipped to Washington State.)
thanks
Rod
Hi Rod
Rod has asked some Great questions, That I and alot of other worm farmers thought of before they started in the worm business.(I am sure) I will try and answer these questions as well as I can, He has asked five questions, I will asnwer them in order that he asked them in order from 1-5
1) Seperating worm castings is a job in its self, I seperated my worm castings by hand for a year or so before I got my Fanning Mill, even with the fanning mill the vermicompost needs to be on the dry side before the fanning mill can do the Great job that it does. So it really depends on how much investment you would like to, or can put into the business, you can also buy a rotating worm harvester, that is fairly costly. the final worm castings needs to be screened through a 1/8″ screen.
2) This is a hard one to answer, I would try to keep a stock of 100 lbs of worms, just for worm casting production alone, If you are planning on being a player in the castings business.
As far as how many worms to sell worms, It would be nice to have a stock of 100 lbs or more, if you get very busy, this # is not very much.
3)Your worm bins 3 by 6 by 2 feet deep are a great size for worm beds, not too big, not too small, A very nice size to work with.
When stocking a worm bed like this,the rule is 1 lb of composting worms to 1 sq ft of surface area in your bin, so the surface area of your 3? by 6? worm bed is 18 sq feet.
So you should be stocking this bed with 18 lbs of worms, If you would like to start slow, I still recommend starting with at least 10 lbs.
4) When are we worm farmers?? haha..
When do you think you are a worm farmer? I think if you have worm beds 3? by 6? you are already a worm farmer,I am sure I have alot of customers with a few pounds of worms calling them selves worm farmers, this is a matter of opinion depending on each individual.
5) I have purchased my original stock from reputable worm farmers, They have been in the business for a long time. I do mix my worms (reds and euros) for casting production only, To keep the worms seperated as to each breed, the 2 breeds need to be a far distance away from each other, along with well made beds to keep the 2 breeds apart. Also another thing to keep in mind is, when making outdoor beds and your plans are to maintain the pure breed of worm, you need to have something between the native worms and the soil that you have just made the bed in, remember your native worms will enjoy eating the bedding you added to your nice pure breed of worms you are going to add to that bed, thus mixing the worms up.
I hope this answers some questions, I would really like to hear back on this one, There are alot of great ideas and methods of worm farming out there, So lets hear your comments
Jeff (The Friendly Worm Guy)
Written by Jeff on August 3rd, 2008 with 3 comments.
Read more articles on About Earthworms and Composting with composting worms and News and Reader Questions and Worm Stories.
